Identifying Differences Between TED Hose & Compression Stockings

More and more individuals require either a TED Hose or Compression Stockings due to a variety of popular conditions, Diabetes, poor circulation, excess fluids (water retention) and D.V.T (Deep Vein Thrombosis) which is a blood clot in a deep vein, usually in the leg(s), both a TED Hose and a Compression Stocking will alleviate conditions related to the mentioned conditions. Medical professionals often identify both TED hose and compression stockings by the same title, TED hose, but there is a significant difference between them.

TED hose is frequently given to patients when they are in the hospital or medical facility. TED hose are designed for individuals that are non ambulatory, or lying down 95% of the time. The compression starts in the calf and decreases as it goes up the leg. The reason the compression starts in the calf, when we are lying down fluid tends to travel no further than our mid leg. The stockings will help push additional fluid from that position up through the lymphatic system, then out the body. TED hose are usually white in color and available as a thigh high or knee high style. Normal compression generally lasts two weeks; this is why when you're in a hospital or medical facility they consistently change your TED hose. In contrast to TED hose, compression stockings offer an array of styles and color choices; therefore they are both fashionable and comfortable. Compression stocking styles vary from knee high, thigh high, pantyhose, and maternity pantyhose.

Compression stockings are available in a sheer material, trouser sock, and athletic sock styles. Compression begins in the ankle and decreases as it goes up the leg. Individuals who have the ability to sit, stand, and walk have gravity working against them, gravity pulls away additional fluid from the upper and mid leg to the ankle and foot, thus eliminating swelling problems among others. When wearing a medical grade compression stocking, the compression begins at the forefoot and decrease as it goes up the leg pushing any extra fluid up and out of the area. Normal compression lasts six months giving the user more time before having to obtain replacement(s).

Certain circumstances allow a person to gain assistance with the purchase of compression stockings. Individuals whom are being treated for an open wound and/or ulcer have the opportunity to gain coverage from insurance as long as all necessary documentation has been made available to the provider. Typically, this consists of a prescription from your physician as well as a CMN (Certificate of Medical Necessity) completed by a wound care specialist. Most insurance differ in regards to coverage and reimbursement, be sure to check with both your doctor and your insurance to see if you are eligible to receive these products.

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Leather Repair - How To Repair Torn Leather Seat

There are so many different types of automotive leather seat repair, all with different situations and applications. There are holes, scratches, gouges, cuts, scrapes, worn or cracked, and just down right grungy looking leather seats. I think I got them all covered, well in this article we're going to talk about how to repair a small hole in a leather seat lean back, for those of you who don't know what a lean back is well it's the upper part of the seat.

Now when I say small this can apply for a tear up to 1 1/2" to 2", probably might go a little bigger, but lets not push it, if it needs to go to the upholstery shop for an insert then that would be better then a crappy looking leather repair on something that probably wouldn't hold anyways. When in doubt, insert it.

Prepping a seat is the key to success in any leather repair, and a lasting leather dye job. So, prep the whole lean back, and while your at it just clean the whole seat, why not, but you don't have to, with your prepping solution removing all grease, dirt, and grime. You need a clean surface and a well prepped area to work with. When I prep, I use a solution of rubbing alcohol, acetone, ammonia, and a small amount of TSP substitute, with water in a spray bottle. Spray the seat with the solution and scrub with a scotch brite pad to scuff the leather seat for leather dye adhesion and remove any grime that's on the seat, then wipe clean with a clean lint free towel. Once your clean, apply a grip base primer to the seat, I usually in most cases will dye the entire lean back when I do a repair or the entire seat, but sometimes it's not necessary, so you may not need to prime the whole seat, but do clean the seat good this cuts down on the amount of leather dye used and the ending result will be a premium leather repair.

Now to the hole. Lets say it's in a V shape, just for example. Like where you've gott'n out of the seat with something in your back pocket, ouch! I know the feeling, back in college I had a 1986 Mustang SVO, very rare and nice car (man I miss that car) and I got out to go to class with a pen in my back pocket and ripped about a 2" V shape in the seat, I about puked right there, and of course at the time I didn't know anything about leather repair. But now I do and here it is.

Sand the area around the tear with a 240 grit sandpaper, this gives a little more for the low heat compound to grip to. Take a piece of underpatch material and slide the under patch under the tear with a pair of tweezers, allowing about a 1/2" on the inside all the way around. I usually cut my patches in a circular shape, it makes it a little easier to slide under. You can use different types of under patches, I like the kind that is coated on one side with a heat activated glue.

Now take a drop of leather glue and spread a thin coat on the patch on the underside of the leather repair area. If the leather will lay down smoothly and match up then great, but sometimes it just won't. In this case we will use combo of the glue and your low cure leather repair compound and smooth a small amount over the patch then lay the leather down. Spread a small amount of low heat compound over the area and smooth it out with your pallet knife, remembering to keeping your area as small as possible, the smaller the better. Now heat the area with your heat gun, hold the heat gun out away from the leather repair and slowly move it into the repair area, this will give you just a little more control of the heat, you don't want to burn and shrink the leather. The idea is to cure the compound and get it to adhere before you cook the leather, it's a skill thing, practice makes perfect. Once the compound is cured immediately press the grain pad in your palm onto the repair, don't press to hard, but firm.

At this time using a wet paper towel apply a small amount of grip base to the repair area and dye with your color matched water based leather dye. Dry thin coats of dye, not wet. Then reapply and smooth out another thin coat of compound. Heat again and grain then dye, get the idea, what you are doing is building the repair up. Thin coats of compound applied and cured then reapplied, are much better then one thick coat. Once you have it built up and looking nice, blend the repair into the rest of the seat if needed, by applying thin coats of leather dye to finish it off. Drying between coats of dye with a hairdryer, and one great tip is rubbing the leather dye with your hands to force the dye into the creases of the leather helps a ton, don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. I say that but I'm allergic to rubber gloves, it bites, so I come home every day with dye all over my hands, it's a pain, but I love the work and the job looks better with a little bit of love rubbed on those leather seat repairs. After the dye is cured, apply a top coat of satin or dull leather clear top coat mixed with a bit of slip additive added for the soft feel. Dry the seat thoroughly, then apply your leather conditioner to finish and give the seat the juice it needs and a great feel and look for you.

Now there are so many other variations to this fix, sometimes I will have to use an air dry leather repair compound over the top of the low heat compound to smooth out the leather repair. Sanding it with a 400 grit sandpaper until it looks right. You can also turn your air down on your paint gun until little droplets are coming out to give it a textured look, drying between coats. Texture coatings, can be used, but if you do it right the gun effect works great. When I do a leather repair I won't give up until it looks perfect. Patience is a virtue, right. Don't get in a hurry, this will only frustrate you more and then you really got issues.

Leather repair is a craft and profession. The dyes and compounds I use are top quality and are made to last. Giving you a lasting leather seat repair, and comfort knowing you have a leather repair that will last and look great for years to come.

I hope this was some help to you, in the coming months there will be more articles like this one but on different situations on leather repair, liked I talked about in the first. There are so many different ways that a leather seat can be damaged, we spend a lot of time in our cars and well "sh$$ happens", right. So check back to see my next article on automotive leather seat repairs. If you have anything you would like to ask feel free to shoot me some comments on Leather Repair - How To Repair Torn Leather Seat.

About the author:
Mike Warren
http://theinteriorguyllc.com
The Interior Guy, LLC., Automotive Interior Repair
I've been in the business for a long time and know a lot of the ends and outs of repairing interiors, from leather and vinyl repair to plastic repair and dyeing of all interior trim parts including carpet and cloth. Need some advice or a tip to fix your autos interior, I've put together some really helpful material with some great products I recommend and use in my repairs. Visit theinteriorguyllc.com for more articles just like this one.

Who Qualifies For Medicare?

Who qualifies for Medicare? All American citizens and permanent residents over age 65 qualify for Part A Medicare if they meet one of the following requirements:

Eligible for or receiving Social Security benefits
Eligible for or receiving Railroad Retirement benefits
You worked in a government job for a minimum amount of time during which payments were made into Medicare on your behalf.
Your living, diseased, or divorced spouse met any of the above criteria
 

If you are over 65 and don't meet one of those "who qualifies for Medicare" criteria, you can still access the health plan by paying a premium for it.

Additionally, there are people who qualifies for Medicare who are under 65. for instance, people with end stage renal disease or Lou Gehrig's disease also qualify.

Anyone who qualifies for Part A Medicare also automatically qualifies for Part B Medicare. You should be aware however that while Part A is free, there is a monthly premium for Part B. People who do not qualify for Part A can still pay for Part B under certain conditions.

Part A medicare is the original plan and is still operated by the government. It covers hospital services. Part B is medical insurance for seniors and covers doctor's visits, outpatient care and the like. 

If you qualify for Part A and Part B, you will also qualify for Parts C and D. Part C replaces parts A and B with a more comprehensive insurance plan including prescription drug benefits at a more expensive price. Part D provides prescription drug benefits to people on Parts A and B.

This article sought to answer the question, "Who qualifies for Medicare?"

Have other Questions About Medicare [http://www.MedicaidMedicare.org]? Go over to [http://www.MedicaidMedicare.org] to get all of the information you need about the federal government's Medicare program.